Bamberg and its surroundings are world famous for their beers, and above all their smoked beers. The Bamberg Beer Trail has long been one of my beer bucket list items (maybe I’ll actually create this list?), so when some good friends told me they would be in the vicinity, we jumped at the opportunity to meet up and enjoy that experience together.

Spoiler: we loved the trail, but went on a Monday, so 2 out of 4 were closed (their websites and google maps etiquette is just as it should be – as in they really don’t seem to give a darn, but that just adds to the charm, so learn from our mistake and enjoy the read nonetheless).

If you don’t like smoked beer, or you just don’t like beer (which is fine, I suppose, I just think you’re missing out is all), this is still a charming, and scenic stroll – an excellent way to get in some nature while you are traveling.

Like everything, it can depend a lot on context and approach. Traditional smoked beers are delicate and nuanced. The smoke is blended into more refreshing and classic styles like Helles, Märzen, or Bock – all known for their balance of malt flavor (bready, toasty, honey, dinner roll). American examples of the styles tend to overdo the smoke character in a way. This is typical for practically any American version of a beer (or perhaps anything). Overdone, bigger, louder, a bit more obnoxious, not really a lot of regard for subtly. Like an annoying teenager still learning its indoor voice.

And then there is context. I suggest that you try smoked beer with traditional German foods, and that you actually gulp the beer. You gotta go for it. Quit trying things half ass already, and just fucking enjoy life, would ya?! Smoked beer is at its best with a meal – like most beer (except Hazy IPA which seems to pair great with nothing, but that’s another story). That said, I will happily drink 2-4 pints of traditional smoked beer on its own.

Most of the times that I have sat with someone that proclaimed they did not like smoked beer, they reveal to me that they tried just a tiny sip (I am sure while already making the disgust/wince face), and without food. Give your palate the opportunity to adapt to and fully appreciate the experience. Odds are you already like smoked things (BBQ, lunch meat, certain cheeses, etc…), but the last 2 generations of bland and boring diets have just deprived us of the experience. We’re still genetically pre-disposed to loving this stuff, so just lean in and enjoy it.

Not all beers from this region are smoked. You will also find tasty blond lagers, hefeweizens, and malty red lagers. I’m focusing on the traditional stuff here, so while there are some newer breweries worth talking about and supporting, it’s just not what I’m here to talk about.

There are four main villages and breweries on the trail. They are all about a 30 minute drive out from Bamberg. We had a car for this portion of the trip, and we found that useful. There is a bus that will take you from Bamberg to one of the villages – we love public transportation and typically find it very reliable. It never hurts to ask the locals for tips.

Here’s the order we visited each:
1. Aufsesser Brauerei: Neighborhood Restaurant Vibe set along the road in a small village.
2. Brauereigasthof Stadter: Roadhouse sort of vibes with a patio at the side, and cozy restaurant inside.
3. Brauerei Gasthof Reichold: Attached to a guesthouse in a very small and quaint neighborhood/town.
4. Kathi Bräu Heckenhof: Had the most open space/biergarten type of atmosphere, and also the most busy on the day we visited.

You can choose to begin wheresoever you like, and you can also choose to walk in whatever direction you like. We parked near Aufsesser, had a beer and snack to start the day.

From there we then headed north to Stadter, which was unfortunately closed (Mondays – hours are not listed on their site or on google). We chatted with the bartender, and he was very friendly and lamented the fact that he could not help us.

We then walked to Reichold, where they were also closed (lolz), but the bartender agreed to give us one pint each if we paid up front (he was hanging out with friends and chatting that day, so we were lucky).

Kathi Brau was lively and active for a Monday, so we were able to order several rounds of beers, and enjoy some great snacks and split a few main courses. From there we walked to the car and headed back into Bamberg for a nap and more beer!

• Bring your favorite people.
• Find the brochure before your head out. I’ve included photos here as well (2022 version).
• It is a trail, so prep accordingly: comfy shoes & clothes, bring water & snacks.
• BEWARE GOOGLE MAPS! – Google maps will have you walk along the highway on the portion between Aufsesser Brauerei & Brauereigasthof Stadter Brewery 1 & 2 if you follow our path. This is NOT the actual trail. If you’re heading the same direction we did (going north), then you’ll walk through the small neighborhood to the left (west) of the highway – you’ll know it’s time to switch sides just as the sidewalk ends.
• Look out for the wood “Brauereienweg” signs to keep you on track. They are expertly placed along the trail – basically anytime I started to wonder if we were still on track I would look up and see one right ahead.
• The trail is safe and well traveled, so if you feel like you are walking along the highway without a safe sidewalk, or through an unmarked field, then you are off the trail a bit.
• People are friendly and helpful! Learn the basic greetings and how to ask for help. Be a good traveler.